A milk and bread panade gives meatloaf a tender and moist texture, but too much panade can dull meaty flavor. We were able to replace much of the panade with gelatin and umami-rich mushrooms without sacrificing texture. Browning the mushrooms with tomato paste and swapping the milk for chicken stock and soy sauce added additional savory notes. Cooking the meatloaf free-form and on a rack maximizes browning and prevents the loaf from stewing or steaming.