Santa Margherita Ligura, tucked between Portofino and Rapallo on the Gulf of Tigullio, epitomizes the nostalgic Italian Riveria.   Frequented by prosperous Northern Italians, the picturesque resort town features an inviting pedestrian zone, tromp l'oeil frescos, and old world elegant hotels.  During a morning passeggiata along the palm tree lined marina one can watch luxurious yachts set