Real Greek salads are made from romaine lettuce, tomatoes, pickling cucumbers and bell peppers, all chopped finely and tossed with a lemony dressing, olives, and feta cheese. In the Greek villages of Cyprus, where this version comes from, the salad also includes a sprinkling of sumac (a spicy red powder ground from sumac berries, sold in Middle Eastern markets) and aromatic dried oregano that grows wild in the hills. Sheryl Julian and Julie Riven says they received the recipe from Agni Charalambous Thurner, who was raised in Kakopepria in Greek Cyprus and now lives in Belmont, Mass. She still makes the salad often. She suggests using either dried basil or mint in place of the wild oregano. Romaine lettuce, she says, is chewier and has more flavor than iceberg lettuce, which is so often used in this country to make Greek salad.